Tein dampening adjustment problem & solution + adjuster tool

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Old 07-18-2005, 09:39 PM
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Tein dampening adjustment problem & solution + adjuster tool

Part 1: Tein adjuster problem & solution
I have been using my Tein Flex for a little while and so far very happy with it. Everything works great except one slight issue with the adjuster. I've always thought the click adjustment on top of the shocks is a little "rough" to turn, even when new. I believe other Tein user might also have the same problem.

The adjustment feels like it stops in an indent and can't rotate out of it easily, thus causing the roughness in the adjustment. Turning the adjustment knob harder will rotate it out but it would stop again after a few clicks later. Recently, the front shock adjustment won't turn at all with the adjuster knob. I had to use a T-handle hex key to turn. Even then, it was still hard to turn, and when it turns, it created a loud snapping sound. I thought for sure it needs to be taken apart and send in for service. I have contacted Tein as well as MrHeeltoe (our forum vendor and authorized Tein dealer) regarding this adjustment problem. I was explained that the problem can be caused by dirt in the click assembly unit or a faulty unit. The shock itself is not the problem. Thanks to MrHeeltoe, he went to Tein and picked up a replacement click assembly unit and shipped it out to me.

I have received the click assembly unit today and proceeded with the replacement.

The black rubber cap on top is not for prevent the adjustment from moving. Instead, it's for prevent dirt from going under the click assembly.



You will need a "thin" 8mm wrench to remove the click assembly. If you have an EDFC unit. You won't have this problem, as the click assembly is already removed.



This is the click assembly upside down on a table. Note the tiny space under the mounting nut. There is a ball bearing, spring and an indent mechanism under the adjuster cap.


Installing the replacement is simply screwing the new click assembly back on and reinstall the dust cap. However, don't over tighten the click assembly.

Fixed the rear unit too
I later decided to remove one of my rear click assembly as it was also giving me problems. I sprayed some brake cleaner under the adjuster cap and turned it a few times. Much to my surprise, the click assembly is now turning silky smooth! I thought about applying some lubricant inside the click assembly, but later decided against it, as the lubricant might attract more dirt later on.

Part 2: custom adjuster tool
The adjuster that came with the Tein Flex works fine for the front but adjusting the rear is vey difficult. It requires removing the seat bottom and side bolsters in order to gain access to the shock adjustment.

Tein adjuster on top of the Flex:


Tein adjuster on top of the SS: This is CJams setup. Since the SS is taller, the Tein adjuster works fine using this setup without removing the seats.


I decided to custom make a longer adjuster using a longer ball-end hex key and a knob. I removed the L end off the key and pushed it inside the knob, then fill the cavity with JB Weld. Let it set and that's it!



The ball-end adjuster can be useful if you didn't drill the hole on the rear shelf perfectly aligned with the shock. The ball-end allows the adjustment even at an angle.

Adjuster on top of the shock:



Wide angle of adjusting ability:

Old 07-18-2005, 10:29 PM
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Simple but effective.
Old 07-18-2005, 11:09 PM
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i just left out the bolts for the rear seat. i can pop off the covers in less than a minute.

well i guess having edfc is even quicker.
Old 04-14-2006, 09:56 PM
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JTso: When you screw out the click assembly was the hex nut inside flush mount or were they tighten all the way down.
It seems like I'm having problem with one of my front adjusters. I reinstall both front L/R. The left one went in without a problem however the right side is very hard to screw on to. It got to the point where I had to use a open end wrench to hold the top nut otherwise it will rotate along with the click assembly when I tried to tighten it.
I'm afraid that I will break it.
Old 04-15-2006, 11:01 AM
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I would try swapping them and see if the problem is on the adjuster or the shock. Make sure to clean the thread really well. It should just screw on easily.
Old 04-16-2006, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JTso
I would try swapping them and see if the problem is on the adjuster or the shock. Make sure to clean the thread really well. It should just screw on easily.
I highly doubt that it's the shock, hopefully not. Because right now both of them are IN but after 5 - 6 clicks from the full clockwise it gets really hard to turn it. I had to put a lot of force into it and as a result I can't get to 7 - 8 clicks.
Right now I'm thinking about replacing the threaded screws inside it also. The one where you have to use hex key to remove it.
Should I apply grease onto it JTso? And what's the best method to clean it?
Old 04-16-2006, 03:17 PM
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On a side note if you don't wanna drill in the hole for the adjuster you could just pop out the side bolster without removing the whole seats, or even having to fold it down.
Just put some pressure on the middle of the side bolster and grab the top part of the bolster then pull it out. It will pop out quite easily.
Old 04-16-2006, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxboost
On a side note if you don't wanna drill in the hole for the adjuster you could just pop out the side bolster without removing the whole seats, or even having to fold it down.
Just put some pressure on the middle of the side bolster and grab the top part of the bolster then pull it out. It will pop out quite easily.
this is how I adjust mine quickly, just remember to leave the screws out of the side bolsters. although i put the seat backs down first b/c I found it easier
Old 04-16-2006, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxboost
I highly doubt that it's the shock, hopefully not. Because right now both of them are IN but after 5 - 6 clicks from the full clockwise it gets really hard to turn it. I had to put a lot of force into it and as a result I can't get to 7 - 8 clicks.
Right now I'm thinking about replacing the threaded screws inside it also. The one where you have to use hex key to remove it.
Should I apply grease onto it JTso? And what's the best method to clean it?
Just remove the click assembly off the shock and spray brake-cleaner to the side. When finish cleaning, shake dry the unit. Then spray some lubricant to the side of the assembly so it flows to the inside. Reinstall the assembly and check adjuster movement. It should now rotate smoothly. Don't forget to put the rubber cap back on after the adjustment.
Old 04-16-2006, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by xizor
this is how I adjust mine quickly, just remember to leave the screws out of the side bolsters. although i put the seat backs down first b/c I found it easier
How often do you guys adjust? It takes like 2 seconds to drill the hole since it's plastic. I adjusted for about the first 2 weeks, maybe once or twice after that. But she hasn't hit the track yet though.
Old 04-16-2006, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CJams
How often do you guys adjust? It takes like 2 seconds to drill the hole since it's plastic. I adjusted for about the first 2 weeks, maybe once or twice after that. But she hasn't hit the track yet though.
Depends on who's gonna be riding my car.
Ever since I have the FLEX I think the best setting for me is front at 0 click (stiffest) and rear at 8 clicks. I think it's the best suited for me. However I can't take any passenger on at all since it's very stiff and whoever is on my car will complait so I adjusted to default.
I found it boucey though. But I guess it all has to do with my preload settings too.
Old 04-17-2006, 01:13 AM
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It sounds like you would benefit from drilling the hole.
Old 04-17-2006, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by CJams
It sounds like you would benefit from drilling the hole.
or get the EDFC.
Old 11-29-2006, 12:49 AM
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The side bolster is easy enough for me to take out. However, even if I pry up the plastic that covers the rear adjusters, I can't get my adjuster tool in an angle to adjust it. Is there another option, such as using those L-shaped hex keys? (I didn't even look at the adjuster tool, so maybe it's not even hex) If so, would anyone have an idea on what size to buy? (I'm probably just going to order it online along with some stuff later). Would the ball-end adjuster mentioned above work at maybe a 40-degree angle? *shrugs*

Thanks
Old 11-29-2006, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SoCaliTrojan
The side bolster is easy enough for me to take out. However, even if I pry up the plastic that covers the rear adjusters, I can't get my adjuster tool in an angle to adjust it. Is there another option, such as using those L-shaped hex keys? (I didn't even look at the adjuster tool, so maybe it's not even hex) If so, would anyone have an idea on what size to buy? (I'm probably just going to order it online along with some stuff later). Would the ball-end adjuster mentioned above work at maybe a 40-degree angle? *shrugs*

Thanks
I use my fingers
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