DC Sports header installed and dyno result!

Old 03-30-2004, 04:00 PM
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jtso: should have asked before. Are those before and after header installation runs or just two runs both with new header?
Old 03-30-2004, 04:06 PM
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One is before header, one is after header. The header provided some nice TQ gain around 3K rpm and HP/TQ gain from 6K rpm up.
Old 03-30-2004, 04:09 PM
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Still wondering why the first run with the K&N Typhoon is so low?
Old 03-30-2004, 04:10 PM
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Also anyway to put the stock heatshield back on for that stock look?
Old 03-30-2004, 04:11 PM
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Not sure. I blame it on the tight engine.
Old 03-31-2004, 12:50 AM
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Originally posted by JTso
The jack stands were at normal spots where you would position the scissor jack. Yes, I reused the original exhaust manifold gasket.
So what jack point did you use? The same spot?

I tried doing that before, but the reinforced plate doesn't seem big enough to jack up the car, and then set it down on the same jack point to a jackstand.
Old 03-31-2004, 05:21 AM
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Originally posted by cmf
Can't you adjust the throttle cable too for a bit of a gain or something?
WHAT throttle cable?!?!
Old 03-31-2004, 09:56 AM
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Originally posted by outersquare
So what jack point did you use? The same spot?

I tried doing that before, but the reinforced plate doesn't seem big enough to jack up the car, and then set it down on the same jack point to a jackstand.
If you look under from the front of the car, there is this "BIG" arrow on the underbody plastic pointing to the jack point. It's dead center on the bottom support frame.
Old 03-31-2004, 10:18 AM
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Originally posted by N_Smith
WHAT throttle cable?!?!
Here is the throttle cable connecting to the APP (accelerator pedal position) sensor.

Here is the adjustment procedure.
Old 03-31-2004, 11:08 AM
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What does the adjustment do then....quicker throttle response?
Old 03-31-2004, 11:43 AM
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If the adjustment is too tight, the throttle plate opens more than it should during idle, causing erratic idle and drivability. If the adjustment is too loose, the throttle plate may not open wide enough during WOT. There's a certain % of throttle position during close and open but it can only be monitored via a scantool.
Old 03-31-2004, 11:45 AM
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i thought the TSX was drive by wire, so no throttle cable?
Old 03-31-2004, 11:50 AM
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It has a throttle cable, just not directly connected to the throttle body.
Old 03-31-2004, 04:11 PM
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Originally posted by JTso
Here is the throttle cable connecting to the APP (accelerator pedal position) sensor.

Here is the adjustment procedure.
Arg, I'm not quite understanding what to do w/ the throttle cable.

First off you can't remove the cover unless you remove the Neuspeed Front Tie Bar. I took mine off, and the cover but I'm not sure what "free play" means. The length of my cable is much longer than 9/16-11/16 long, although I was not exactly sure what to measure from.

What do you tighten? I see the 2 bolts, but the one underneath looks impossible to reach. And they don't look like they want to screw down farther.
Old 03-31-2004, 04:49 PM
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The free play is the deflection from the current position. Just look at the adjustment procedures and the two arrows pointing to the cable. Hold a ruler against the wire and pull or push the wire away from the ruler. The total wire movement without moving the cam is your free play.

I don't think any adjustment is needed though...
Old 03-31-2004, 05:04 PM
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Hey JTso, I wonder when u drive your tsx with K$N CAI, and DC SPORTS header on street or highway, how does it feel from power? Are u satisfield with new upgrade on engine?
Old 03-31-2004, 05:19 PM
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I'm happy with the upgrades so far and power is goood. However, I feel more hp is possible with the Hondata gasket and K-Pro ECU.
Old 03-31-2004, 05:53 PM
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Hey JTso, do you think you'll get the Stoptech kit eventually?
Old 03-31-2004, 05:55 PM
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ya, he will!
Old 03-31-2004, 08:21 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the gasket is for the manifold?
Old 04-01-2004, 12:55 AM
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Yes, the Hondata gasket is for the manifold.
Old 04-02-2004, 08:08 AM
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nice post, looks like the header is a worthwhile investment
Old 04-02-2004, 09:31 AM
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I see that there is no mount on the new header for the heat shield, I take it you did not reinstall the heat shield?

And if not... did this raise the inside hood temp?
Old 04-02-2004, 09:55 AM
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I don't think any aftermarket headers have provision for the factory heatshield (I wish they did). Therefore, that area seems to be a little hotter if you place you hand on the bottom of the strut bar. However, I didn't notice a huge increased in under hood temp when I pop the hood open.
Old 04-02-2004, 10:35 AM
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Originally posted by JTso
If you look under from the front of the car, there is this "BIG" arrow on the underbody plastic pointing to the jack point. It's dead center on the bottom support frame.
is the same true for the back of the car?
Old 04-02-2004, 10:56 AM
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Theses are some nice gains, and are well worth the install.
I know heat is a factor, for maximizing engine performance.
I do not want to introduce, any more heat in the engine bay if possible.

So I may try a mod to the new pipe:
It looks like from the pictures that the mounting point for the heat shield from the old pipe can be cut off , and re-welded on to the new upper header base plate. The heat shield may be lower, but it still should help engine bay temp, and keep heat from the other engine components.

Or maybe some type of modified heat shield, if needed.
Using the base bolts, on the upper header section.

Do you know how other manufacturers headers stack up against each other for power gains, or are they all about the same for gains in HP\TQ.

Thanks for your detail write ups, it’s a big help when trying to make the right choices for mods.
Old 04-02-2004, 11:07 AM
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If anything, I would leave the stock manifold alone in case it needs to be returned back to stock, and just custom made a few mounting tabs and weld them to the header. However, this requires the header to be recoated which increases the cost.

Another method would be a two piece custom heatshield. The first piece will attach to the stock mounting bolts on top while installing the header. The second piece will bolt on to the first piece once the header is tighten down. Hmm... another project...

There aren't many headers out there for comparison yet. Comptech has a SS header but SS will produce more heat than ceramic though.
Old 04-02-2004, 11:25 AM
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Thanks...

I think I am going to order the DC header today.
I like the power gains for a 2 hour bolt on...:-)
Do you think the dealer may get bent, if you take in for warrantee repairs, and he sees that you did a header mod??
Is that why you said don't mess with the stock one?

Also have you’ve mess any of the exhaust resonator? Like removed them. I wanted a little sound from the tail (not a whole lot) when I punch it... Maybe taking one off, and then checking it... The TSX exhaust is pretty quiet, being stock....
Old 04-02-2004, 12:00 PM
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Originally posted by forestsoft
Theses are some nice gains, and are well worth the install.
I know heat is a factor, for maximizing engine performance.
I do not want to introduce, any more heat in the engine bay if possible.
Get a Cold Air Intake as well
Old 04-02-2004, 03:45 PM
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Originally posted by forestsoft
Thanks...

I think I am going to order the DC header today.
I like the power gains for a 2 hour bolt on...:-)
Do you think the dealer may get bent, if you take in for warrantee repairs, and he sees that you did a header mod??
Is that why you said don't mess with the stock one?

Also have you’ve mess any of the exhaust resonator? Like removed them. I wanted a little sound from the tail (not a whole lot) when I punch it... Maybe taking one off, and then checking it... The TSX exhaust is pretty quiet, being stock....
I keep the stock manifold in case I need to trade/sell the car. I don't have any plans to mess with the stock exhaust system yet, pending some dyno results to determine if it's worth the time and money. I kind of like the exhaust the way it is.
Old 04-06-2004, 11:46 PM
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there is a group buy going for the DC header.

http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...&threadid=8202
Old 04-08-2004, 12:14 PM
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is the stock header really that dirty? The last time I looked it was still silverish looking. How many miles do you have on your car JTO?
Old 04-08-2004, 12:26 PM
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The car only has 1500 miles. It's not dirty. I believe the stock manifold is SS and that's the way it is. It's also the reason I don't buy SS header.
Old 04-08-2004, 02:24 PM
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It's from the heat. Kinda like stainless steel in the kitchen, if you heat it up and don't claen it often with a stainless cleaner, it tarnishes (?spelling?) the stainless steel, giving it that rainbow looking color.
The header like JTso has a ceramic coating on it, which helps to reduce heat and prevents it from turning colors.
Old 04-08-2004, 05:52 PM
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I saw the Comptech header Dyno and comparing your dyno it looks like Comptech is optimized for low end torque. DC gain more HP at the end and because torque is what moves the car, I believe that the comptech will result in better initial acceleration.
DC has good value for power delivery.

Your comments.
Old 04-08-2004, 06:10 PM
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Go back and look at the DC dyno again. You didn't see the low end torque gain?
Old 04-09-2004, 10:13 AM
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jt.....now that your putting more miles on your car, are you feeling more power?
Old 04-17-2004, 01:38 PM
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What is the difference between ceramic and stainless steel? Why would DC decided to use ceramic instead of stainless steel?
Old 04-19-2004, 05:44 AM
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It's the type f coating on it it's not realy made out of ceramic.

D.
Old 04-19-2004, 11:09 AM
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I think DC makes headers both in stainless and "ceramic"

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