dzuy

engine mods:
comptech icebox
comptech stainless steel header
comptech stainless steel cat back exhaust
hondata reflash
hondata intake manifold gasket
random technology high flow cat

mustang dyno runs:
max hp = 192.7 hp @ 7000 rpm
max tq = 163.9 ft-lb @ 6000 rpm

TinkySD

very nice runs! Get to a dynojet asap, I'm willing to speculate that you'll be the first 200whp tsx on the dynojet!

dom

Nice work dooozie!!!!

dzuy

thx dom.



:troutslap

dzuy

hopefully.

i'm real busy the next couple of weeks.

lilcasino

only mods are injen intake and dc sports header. Car has 26,xxx miles and had a oil change 100 miles before the dyno.

peter_bigblock

I don't have a scanner, but on a Mustang dyno I ran 163hp and 138 lb-ft. So far just the reflash and Icebox intake. I'm installing DC headers in about a week and, when I can afford it, the Random Tech cat. I'm hoping the two get me about 15hp and 10 lb-ft.

When I went to the dyno shop, they only dynoed me from about 4000 rpm to redline, from about 50mph to 110mph in 4th gear. I'm a dyno noob, is there anything I should have done differently? How do you do a dyno from 2000rpm -- the whole way in 4th gear? I was a little disappointed in the numbers but realize they're mostly useful for a baseline and I've done very little to increase my peak numbers. Just don't know how dzuy is getting 193hp -- do his headers/cat/exhaust/heatshield really add 30 hp vs. my Icebox/reflash alone?

JTso

iTrader: (2)

I shift through 1st, 2nd, 3rd and into 4th. Then hold the rpm around 2000 to 2500 rpm in 4th gear, and wait for the signal from the dyno operator. Once I got the signal, I then floor the pedal while he activates the button for the recording. Continue to keep the pedal down until close to redline without bouncing off the rev limiter.

dzuy

you should do a third gear pull, fourth gear is sucha tall gear - my numbers were down when i did a fourth gear pull - but it was still higher than even my highest dyno in third before i got the high flow cat.

peter_bigblock

But since gears lower than 1:1 would act as a torque multiplier, wouldn't a pull in 3rd gear give you artificially high numbers for hp and torque (since hp is a function of torque and rpm)? I'm pretty sure that's right, even though the TSX 4th gear is 1.028:1, it's closest to 1:1.

I'm going to do more of a 2,000-7,500 dyno pull next time.

rmpage

The 5AT seems to rob about 10-15hp more in driveline loss than the 6MT:

166 hp/140 lb-ft (Acrobat PDF)

Ignore the erratic torque curve in the PDF. I have a printout here and it is flat as a board, dipping ever so slightly past 6,500 RPM.

• Hondata reflash
• Injen CAI
• Bored throttle body
• Hondata IMG
• Comptech header (our cars do NOT use headers, dammit)
• Magnaflow/Random tech cats (their performance was identical)
• Fujitsubo catback exhaust

So, with all the NA modifications that can be done I am delivering probably ~6% less to the wheels than a comparable 6MT TSX. Realize that the Mustang dynamometers typically register 10hp less (in this neighborhood) than the more commonly used Dynojet does. I need to confirm this through further experimentation, though.

dzuy

i dynoed on a mustang a while back at 193 hp, 165 ft-lb in my 6MT. so i guess the AT robs alot more power than 10-15

rmpage

Whoops, yeah I forgot that's what you used last time.

Christ, that's close to a 20% drop in power transfer. I need to get the ball rolling on some hand controls that will let me operate a clutch again.

waTSX

^^^Jeez! 20%? I'd never have guessed that much of a difference between manual and auto.

CCColtsicehockey

damn that means its almost two different cars with that much power differnce and the same mods

peter_bigblock

I'm certainly no expert, but I think it makes a difference what gear you're running a chassis dyno in (all other things equal). Like Dzuy said a few posts ago, when he ran a 4th gear pull his numbers were lower (didn't say how much) than his 3rd-gear pulls. On a Mustang, in 4th, with CAI/header/random/reflash, I pulled 182whp and 153wtq.

Next time I go in (after intake gasket), I'll do back-to-back 3rd and 4th pulls and post the difference it makes.

rmpage

Another thing to remember is that running an AT close to 1:1, as it is in 4th gear, isn't going to portray power as realistically as can be felt during driving. The torque converter of an automatic transmission produces ridiculous gobs of torque multiplication in the lower gears. If you dyno a MT and AT in 2nd gear, the AT is going to produce higher torque numbers at a given RPM, which will yield a higher horsepower reading.

03CoupeV6

Mustang Dynos always read high. Dynojets are more accurate - at least this is what I've always heard.

rmpage

That's backwards - Mustangs take into account things like tire rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag, so they read maybe 5% less than a Dynojet. This also makes them more accurate in the sense that they better represent real-world conditions.

dzuy

hahaha

nice. :troutslap

dzuy

you took the words right out of my mouth

:troutslap

6SpeedTA95

Correct...mustang dyno's generally read 5 to 7% less.

03CoupeV6

Oh the dzuy's TSX 6MT must not be stock. There's no way a stock TSX 6MT only loses 7hp and 1tq from the crank to the wheels.

Guess I had confused my dyno facts.

Tsx536

Actually I think that Dzuy is mostly stock. The only mod he has is the Turbonator

:troutslap

rmpage

And one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...spagenameZWDVW

dzuy

yup. i'm bone stock :P

:troutslap <- loves turbonator!

CGTSX2004

iTrader: (1)

Dynos for a stock 2006 6MT and a 2006 5AT w/ CAI.

sauceman

Great info! Thanks CG.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Metal' CAT dyno results

CJams

I'm going for my Baseline bone stock dyno on Firday Can't wait! I just wish I could do it sooner so I can hurry up and put the new CAI on.

chuson

Hey JTso...
I'm just wondering approximately how much HP/Torque I will gain when I install DC Header, High-Flow Cat, and Injen CAI??? Is it worth to go for dyno w/ just these mod??? Or I should wait till I have other mods like Hondata reflesh or something else?

rmpage

Think of a dyno as a snapshot of relative vehicle performance.

Alone, they are relatively useless as the characteristics of different dynos, different fuels, and different weather on different days will produce variations in the numbers you get. Dyno your car on a day with hot, humid weather on a tank of bad gas on a Mustang dynamometer and you might only get 150whp. Put the exact same car on a Dynojet during a cold, dry winter day with good fuel in the tank and you might get +20whp more without lifting a finger. The variations can be extremely broad.

However, when you test your car after each mod, you end up with a snapshot of several different intervals. Such an approach allows you to compare what effect each mod had on your performance, which is, from a scientific standpoint, what a dyno is designed to do (among a few other things). Doing just one after you've done all your mods really isn't good for anything beyond satisfying your own curiousity.

Do as many as you can, ideally once after each major performance mod you perform.

chuson

I don't know if this is true, but I heard my friend said it costs $300CAD to run for dyno @ Toronto, can anyone confirm???
My mechnican said in order for him to fine tune my car w/ all the mod, he needs me to do dyno for analysis or something. However, what can he tune?? Air/Fuel ratio??? or what??? Will hooking up a VAFC-II for air/fuel ratio improve my performance???

rmpage

Your friend is likely misinformed. I pay $50 USD for a single pull, which is about $80 CAD. This may be on the low side but $300 CAD for one pull strikes me as being astronomically high.

Keep in mind that your friend is probably talking about the cost for one hour (or some such time limit) of tuning on a dyno. That is where you strap the car down, do a pull, adjust some things, do another pull, wash-rinse-repeat until you have everything tweaked the way you want it. You won't be "tuning" your car at all. The only tuning you can do to the TSX as of right now is having Hondata reflash it. Dyno tuning is done using things like a Kpro, where settings can be actively manipulated on the fly. It is more expensive, but if you had a Kpro and a turbo or something, a custom tune would give you great results.

Also, anybody who hooks up a VAFC to a K series engine is only going to spend a lot of time and money making their car slower. The ECU is far too smart to trick into doing what you want it to by altering a few of the inputs, and even if you do get it to do what you want on the dyno, chances are by tomorrow it will have figured out a way to get back to where it wants to almost in spite of you.

Tsx536

I did some research on the VAFC on clubRSX and the consensus was that the K-Series engine hates it. The ECU does everything it can to ignore signals from it. A couple of guys have had engine probelms after installing it.

I do know of one TSX in SoCal with it. He said he got it tuned on a dyno, but he still wants the Hondata reflash.

CJams

On Friday mine is gonna cost $45 for 2 pulls. www.intecracing.com

chuson

Thx guys. I guess I only need to dyno it if I want to know my actual performance output, I would save that $$$ to get the Hondata reflesh when it's avaliable then.

CJams

Just got back from intec

Outside Temp=47deg
Gas= Chevron 92 Octane
Max Power=154.2
Max Torque=138.2

Here is a link to the Dyno Pic. I would post it, but it's huge and I can't resize it right now.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a59...2006_00001.jpg

I think I have a pressure washer that's got more power than this car. JK! I can't wait to slap the next Acura salesman that tells me this thing pushes 205horsies.

Stokeless_TSX

what mods do u have? That sounds really really low...

CJams

It's my baseline dyno. Completely stock with 34,710 miles on the engine. I wanted to dyno it before I start bolting things on.