A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*
#761
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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There are worse places to live in CA, but they also have something going for them, next to the Ocean, not far from better neighborhoods, interesting cities.. I was going to say at least it's not San Bernardino, but that's just a hop skip to Vegas.. Bakersfield really is the armpit of CA.
#762
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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I have some family scattered between Bakersfield and Fresno.. I don't visit them much.
#764
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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I blame Rockstar
#766
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GUILTY!
Maj...for the timing belt job, do you think this would be a good torque wrench? I only have a 1/2" drive one and remember once snapping a valve cover bolt off even though I had it set to a low setting. Thinking about picking up this smaller range one for the job.
worth the extra money for the "pro" one?
mind you, only one I own is a cheap harbor freight one that I ONLY use to torque lugs.
Maj...for the timing belt job, do you think this would be a good torque wrench? I only have a 1/2" drive one and remember once snapping a valve cover bolt off even though I had it set to a low setting. Thinking about picking up this smaller range one for the job.
worth the extra money for the "pro" one?
Amazon.com: Neiko Professional Grade 3/8-Inch Drive 15-80 ft-lb Automatic Torque Wrench: Home Improvement
mind you, only one I own is a cheap harbor freight one that I ONLY use to torque lugs.
#767
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Nevermind...that'll work. Just went back over the pictures. I'll be tackling this soon. It's a belt, I'm capable.
Thanks for the votes of confidence, man.
I have a lightweight crank pulley anyway, so I should be fine since it's torqued down differently using a degree method rather than ft lb. I'm going with the non pro, looks like it just got rubber grip and easier to read numbers.
Thanks for the votes of confidence, man.
I have a lightweight crank pulley anyway, so I should be fine since it's torqued down differently using a degree method rather than ft lb. I'm going with the non pro, looks like it just got rubber grip and easier to read numbers.
#768
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
#769
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
You can't tighten your lugnuts with those and you think it's suitable for the crank pulley..
181 lbs/ft is spec.
181 lbs/ft is spec.
#771
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LOL...I guess I'm terrible at expressing my thoughts. I HAVE a harbor freight 1/2 one...goes like 20-150 ft/lb...BUT, I once used it on valve cover bolt and it snapped off. Maybe I had it set wrong. Either way, I bought the Neiko 3/8" one for the more delicate jobs that require more maneuvering than the bigger one can offer. I figured for $28, I couldn't go wrong.
I'm not worried about my crank pulley as that's torqued to hand tight, ten 60 degrees past that (that's instruction by lightweight pulley company...not oem CP).
Thanks for the replies.
and for almost not making fun of me
I'm not worried about my crank pulley as that's torqued to hand tight, ten 60 degrees past that (that's instruction by lightweight pulley company...not oem CP).
Thanks for the replies.
and for almost not making fun of me
#772
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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That'll do..
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rockstar143 (04-03-2014)
#773
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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J is going to mess this up..
#776
LOL...I guess I'm terrible at expressing my thoughts. I HAVE a harbor freight 1/2 one...goes like 20-150 ft/lb...BUT, I once used it on valve cover bolt and it snapped off. Maybe I had it set wrong. Either way, I bought the Neiko 3/8" one for the more delicate jobs that require more maneuvering than the bigger one can offer. I figured for $28, I couldn't go wrong.
I'm not worried about my crank pulley as that's torqued to hand tight, ten 60 degrees past that (that's instruction by lightweight pulley company...not oem CP).
Thanks for the replies.
and for almost not making fun of me
I'm not worried about my crank pulley as that's torqued to hand tight, ten 60 degrees past that (that's instruction by lightweight pulley company...not oem CP).
Thanks for the replies.
and for almost not making fun of me
Nowadays I only give them about an 1/8th turn past hand-tight.
BTW Harbor freight also has a 1/4" torque wrench with in/lb settings (20-200 lb/in) for $9.99 if you print out the torque wrench coupon. That's 1.66-16.66 lb/ft. Might be worth while if you're good at dividing by 12.
Last edited by 94eg!; 04-03-2014 at 08:34 AM.
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rockstar143 (04-03-2014)
#777
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^^^Then that explains it! This happened on my 97 Accord...but I never forgot it...on the TL, I was torquing down the intake and with my previous experience, I stopped before breaking anything but I could tell I was going too far with it.
Maybe I'll snag a 1/4" one too...
In my youth I just torqued to what I thought was good...and then gorilla armed all the suspension/engine bolts/lug nuts. Now I know better...
Maybe I'll snag a 1/4" one too...
In my youth I just torqued to what I thought was good...and then gorilla armed all the suspension/engine bolts/lug nuts. Now I know better...
#778
Race Director
Yeah, definitely recommend getting a 1/4" torque wrench for bolts like that. Plenty of folks have busted the Honda/Acura valve cover bolts. The spec is 8.7 ft/lbs, so it doesn't take much at all.
These bolts have stops on them, so if you reach the stop before the 8.7, stop there. It will be good. If you continue on, you'll likely snap the bolt. The SM manual says to tighten in 2-3 steps and to use a specific sequence for the final step.
FYI, the timing belt cover bolts also use the same torque spec.
These bolts have stops on them, so if you reach the stop before the 8.7, stop there. It will be good. If you continue on, you'll likely snap the bolt. The SM manual says to tighten in 2-3 steps and to use a specific sequence for the final step.
FYI, the timing belt cover bolts also use the same torque spec.
#780
Team Owner
This is why I don't use torque wrenches on the small stuff unless I'm building an engine and it's internal. For the valvecover bolts it's easy , go until it stops and stop. The stops are there so you can't over torque and squish the gasket.
I don't use a torque wrench for the spark plugs or just about anything. On the tapered plugs you can feel the plug seat. On gasket style plugs you can feel when the gasket stops compressing. After doing it for years I trust myself when going by feel.
The problems arise when someone who hasn't been trained to use a torque wrench uses one on a small fastener and uses a cheap torque wrench at that. I would tighten by hand any day over using a Harbor Freight wrench. I use Snap-On for engine building or anything else I use a torque wrench on which isn't much. I've seen the cheap wrenches be off by 50% or more when new. You also don't want to run them at either extreme. Try and use a torque wrench that puts the torque value near the middle of its range. Also, pulling at an angle or using a U-joint or swivel is a no-no. A slow smooth motion is required and I use one hand, never two on a torque wrench. Pulling too hard can over torque a fastener before the wrench "breaks". Obviously dry vs lubed threads have been gone over.
For most of the small stuff I put my hand over the head of the ratchet (not torque wrench) instead of using the handle for better feel and to avoid over torquing.
I don't use a torque wrench for the spark plugs or just about anything. On the tapered plugs you can feel the plug seat. On gasket style plugs you can feel when the gasket stops compressing. After doing it for years I trust myself when going by feel.
The problems arise when someone who hasn't been trained to use a torque wrench uses one on a small fastener and uses a cheap torque wrench at that. I would tighten by hand any day over using a Harbor Freight wrench. I use Snap-On for engine building or anything else I use a torque wrench on which isn't much. I've seen the cheap wrenches be off by 50% or more when new. You also don't want to run them at either extreme. Try and use a torque wrench that puts the torque value near the middle of its range. Also, pulling at an angle or using a U-joint or swivel is a no-no. A slow smooth motion is required and I use one hand, never two on a torque wrench. Pulling too hard can over torque a fastener before the wrench "breaks". Obviously dry vs lubed threads have been gone over.
For most of the small stuff I put my hand over the head of the ratchet (not torque wrench) instead of using the handle for better feel and to avoid over torquing.
#781
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Matt, where were you yesterday before I placed order...
I use the HF ONLY for torquing the lugs, and I return to zero every time.
That said, I've been doing a lot of what you're suggesting (like the hand on the ratchet etc), just didn't know it was the right way.
Thanks for the responses either way.
I use the HF ONLY for torquing the lugs, and I return to zero every time.
That said, I've been doing a lot of what you're suggesting (like the hand on the ratchet etc), just didn't know it was the right way.
Thanks for the responses either way.
#782
FYI, if your torque wrench isn't rated for zero (and it's not) don't go to zero for storage. If it says 20-200, reduce it to 20 for storage. Minimum setting (not zero).
This is part of the reason I really want one of those fancy Precision Instruments "Split Beam" style wrenches. It's still a clicker, but it doesn't use a coil spring like the micrometer style wrenches. And because it doesn't use a coil spring, you don't have to return it min-setting for storage. For ~$120, this is what I would use to work on my motor. Includes a certificate of calibration as well. These the same wrenches as Snap-On brand, but with blue accents instead of red (they make the Snap-On ones).
Thumb-wheel adjustment:
Decent case:
Get it in red if you want to spend a lot more:
This is part of the reason I really want one of those fancy Precision Instruments "Split Beam" style wrenches. It's still a clicker, but it doesn't use a coil spring like the micrometer style wrenches. And because it doesn't use a coil spring, you don't have to return it min-setting for storage. For ~$120, this is what I would use to work on my motor. Includes a certificate of calibration as well. These the same wrenches as Snap-On brand, but with blue accents instead of red (they make the Snap-On ones).
Thumb-wheel adjustment:
Decent case:
Get it in red if you want to spend a lot more:
Last edited by 94eg!; 04-03-2014 at 10:59 AM.
#783
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
J could screw up an omelette
Heat butter in pan, crack 3 eggs and whip, pour into pan, burn, catch house on fire, drive to airport, get ticket to costa rica, start new life.
Heat butter in pan, crack 3 eggs and whip, pour into pan, burn, catch house on fire, drive to airport, get ticket to costa rica, start new life.
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I hate cars (04-03-2014),
rockstar143 (04-03-2014)
#784
Team Owner
#785
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
If it were Justn, he would get in the car to drive to the airport, hit 3 curbs, 4 trees and then wrap it around a light post in the 24 hour fitness parking lot on the way there.
He'd borrow a friends bike (indefinitely) and make it to the airport, get rectal cavity search by TSA, finally get on plane sitting between two heavy hitters, break seat belt, try to fix seat belt, end up in the cargo hold, pull wires, short out avionics, plane goes missing in the Pacific Ocean, 4 week search team, Malaysian PM claims black hole. Thanks Obama.
He'd borrow a friends bike (indefinitely) and make it to the airport, get rectal cavity search by TSA, finally get on plane sitting between two heavy hitters, break seat belt, try to fix seat belt, end up in the cargo hold, pull wires, short out avionics, plane goes missing in the Pacific Ocean, 4 week search team, Malaysian PM claims black hole. Thanks Obama.
#787
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
crankshaft seal.. only replace if leaking. Usually not an issue until the 2nd or 3rd change.
#788
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Sig worthy indeed...
I once got a blackworks digital torque wrench...it would beep when you went past the setting...but then it would reset and you'd have to set it again...and it made it WAYYY too easy to accidentally press a button and have it NOT beep when you went too far. I returned it immediately.
Thanks for the tip on 20 and not zero...I just figured no tension on spring would keep it withing that 50% tolerance for longer
I once got a blackworks digital torque wrench...it would beep when you went past the setting...but then it would reset and you'd have to set it again...and it made it WAYYY too easy to accidentally press a button and have it NOT beep when you went too far. I returned it immediately.
Thanks for the tip on 20 and not zero...I just figured no tension on spring would keep it withing that 50% tolerance for longer
#790
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
ah, I read "brown" thought you meant the seal. That's the vtec solenoid filter / gasket / seal. It's adjacent from the oil filter. The solenoid and oil filter are one assembly. Replace if leaking.
#791
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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Whose the babe with the torpedoes in your avie?
#792
#794
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#798
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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#800
Sorry its been a while but here is a couple pictures of the pulley that broke while trying to break it loose. Broke off 3 big chunks and then ended up using the bump method. I got the new one and replaced it just a couple days later since i was worried about it being out of balance.