Automatic Transmission Filter
06-02-2006, 10:28 PM
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Automatic Transmission Filter
Well I've decided that it is time for me to change out the ATF thats in my 5AT.
Upon looking over the transmission I noticed that our transmission does indeed have a filter that sits directly on top of the tranny. (I circled it in red in the image below)
Which begs the question: is this a servicable filter that we are supposed to routinely replace?
The filter part no is: 25430-PLR-003
Upon looking over the transmission I noticed that our transmission does indeed have a filter that sits directly on top of the tranny. (I circled it in red in the image below)
Which begs the question: is this a servicable filter that we are supposed to routinely replace?
The filter part no is: 25430-PLR-003
06-02-2006, 11:08 PM
#3
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I personally wouldn't worry about it.
From what I understand, or can remember, the filter was installed there to trap any large amounts of metal shavings in the event of a catastrophic transmission failure only. I do not believe its designed to keep the fluid cleaner under normal conditions.
If you have < 30,000 miles on the unit, just drain the unit once by pulling the drain plug and refilling with new Honda ATF through the fill plug. There's no need to repeat the process after a short drive....you remove a little over 40% of the old fluid w/the first drain/fill, and you remove half that amount with the second. If you're really picky, then drive for 3000 miles after your first drain/fill to allow the fluid to do some cleaning, and drain/fill again...but this certainly isn't needed.
From what I understand, or can remember, the filter was installed there to trap any large amounts of metal shavings in the event of a catastrophic transmission failure only. I do not believe its designed to keep the fluid cleaner under normal conditions.
If you have < 30,000 miles on the unit, just drain the unit once by pulling the drain plug and refilling with new Honda ATF through the fill plug. There's no need to repeat the process after a short drive....you remove a little over 40% of the old fluid w/the first drain/fill, and you remove half that amount with the second. If you're really picky, then drive for 3000 miles after your first drain/fill to allow the fluid to do some cleaning, and drain/fill again...but this certainly isn't needed.
06-02-2006, 11:13 PM
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Well... I've been neglecting the transmission.
I haven't touched the fluid since I got the car and its at.... *gasp* ~60,000mis.
70% of those miles were due to highway driving though.
I was going to do what you explained to do in another thread:
I haven't touched the fluid since I got the car and its at.... *gasp* ~60,000mis.
70% of those miles were due to highway driving though.
I was going to do what you explained to do in another thread:
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
I'd change the ATF every 30,000 miles at the minimum if you plan on keeping the car.
Here's the easier, inexpensive way of doing a complete fluid change, with no damage done to the transmission:
1) Drive TSX for at least 15 mi at highway speeds to warm-up transmission fluid.
2) Shut off car, jack up all 4 tires.
3) Remove ATF dipstick
4) Remove filler bolt
5) Remove drain plug. Allow fluid to drain.
6) Reinstall drain plug, replace washer if needed.
7) Look for the lines that connect to the radiator heat exchanger. Remove BOTH lines, allow heat exchanger to drain, and put lines into a bucket. (use additional hose if lines aren't long enough)
8) Pour 3 qts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall bolt hand tight.
9) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
10) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
11) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
12) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
13) Reconnect both hoses, and warm-up the transmission, then check fluid level.
14) Finally, tighten the fill bolt once top-off is complete.
This method is MUCH more efficient than doing a 3x drain/refill, and removes >90% of the old fluid. Honda does not support power flush machines as sometimes, they "backflush" the transmission and dislodge particles, which have no way of exiting the transmission, as Hondas do not have a serviceable transmission filter. The method I described is similar to a fluid exchange, and will not put any abnormal stress of the transmission.
Here's the easier, inexpensive way of doing a complete fluid change, with no damage done to the transmission:
1) Drive TSX for at least 15 mi at highway speeds to warm-up transmission fluid.
2) Shut off car, jack up all 4 tires.
3) Remove ATF dipstick
4) Remove filler bolt
5) Remove drain plug. Allow fluid to drain.
6) Reinstall drain plug, replace washer if needed.
7) Look for the lines that connect to the radiator heat exchanger. Remove BOTH lines, allow heat exchanger to drain, and put lines into a bucket. (use additional hose if lines aren't long enough)
8) Pour 3 qts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall bolt hand tight.
9) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
10) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
11) Start engine, allow 3 qts to exit out of the lines. Stop engine
12) Remove filler bolt, pour 3 more quarts of fluid into the fill hole, reinstall plug hand tight.
13) Reconnect both hoses, and warm-up the transmission, then check fluid level.
14) Finally, tighten the fill bolt once top-off is complete.
This method is MUCH more efficient than doing a 3x drain/refill, and removes >90% of the old fluid. Honda does not support power flush machines as sometimes, they "backflush" the transmission and dislodge particles, which have no way of exiting the transmission, as Hondas do not have a serviceable transmission filter. The method I described is similar to a fluid exchange, and will not put any abnormal stress of the transmission.
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getty97 (10-25-2013)
06-02-2006, 11:50 PM
#5
Actually, to common misconception, there is no "power" flush machine, at least for Honda's and Toyota's. If you used a power flush machine, you'd blow the tranny seals. The tranny pump in most cars is fairly strong and when they hook a so-called "power" flush machine, it's a fluid exchange machine that operates off the tranny pump. You simply hook up in line a recieving and return line off your tranny fluid path (generally at the radiator). The recieving line pumps fluid into a chamber that pushes on a bladder to expel new tranny fluid in another chamber, through a return line to the vehicle. It works pretty well. For Honda's, I use another machine by Mac Tool that works fairly well, but it's only a capture machine; you gotta be consistantly feeding the tranny new fluid or turn off the vehicle and add fluid (which is essentially the same process for the at home user you describe above).
I am also pretty sure the actual filter for the tranny (the main one that is) is located inside the tranny and is obviously a non-serviceable item unless you break open the tranny case and do like an overhaul. Honda auto trannies are notorious for that.
One more tid-bit info, did you know your tranny is also not a typical auto tranny that is based on a planetary gear set? It essentially a manual tranny, but instead of synrchos, instead uses like a wet clutch system. That's why in the older honda's, you could actually feel the engine cut out for like half a sec, while the clutches engaged or disengaged. You can still sort of feel it in the newer trannies, but it's become so well designed it's hardly felt when the engine cuts out for a split second. Saturn, and I believe one other company uses this type of auto tranny.
I am also pretty sure the actual filter for the tranny (the main one that is) is located inside the tranny and is obviously a non-serviceable item unless you break open the tranny case and do like an overhaul. Honda auto trannies are notorious for that.
One more tid-bit info, did you know your tranny is also not a typical auto tranny that is based on a planetary gear set? It essentially a manual tranny, but instead of synrchos, instead uses like a wet clutch system. That's why in the older honda's, you could actually feel the engine cut out for like half a sec, while the clutches engaged or disengaged. You can still sort of feel it in the newer trannies, but it's become so well designed it's hardly felt when the engine cuts out for a split second. Saturn, and I believe one other company uses this type of auto tranny.
06-02-2006, 11:54 PM
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^^ Good info to know.
Should I be worried about my tranny though?
There is no signs of slipping or jerking in between gears (or while holding gears in SS), but recently it has been emitting should I say... operating noise?
The noise isn't loud or anything its just a faint but apparent sound of the gears turning which is especially apparent while in Sportshift.
I purchased 12qts of ATF-Z1 and I plan on doing the change tommorow morning.
Should I be worried about my tranny though?
There is no signs of slipping or jerking in between gears (or while holding gears in SS), but recently it has been emitting should I say... operating noise?
The noise isn't loud or anything its just a faint but apparent sound of the gears turning which is especially apparent while in Sportshift.
I purchased 12qts of ATF-Z1 and I plan on doing the change tommorow morning.
06-16-2006, 09:59 PM
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Hate to revive an old thread, but what are Honda/Acura’s service intervals for the AT Filter? This is the first serviceable AT filter I’ve seen on a Honda/Acura, but I don't see anything in the manual about this. I know a few other non-Honda/Acura cars I had, recommended changing the filter during a fluid change.
This filter can't last the life of the car, unless the life of a car is at end of warranty or 100,000 miles. A filter can only filter so much before it becomes ineffective.
This filter can't last the life of the car, unless the life of a car is at end of warranty or 100,000 miles. A filter can only filter so much before it becomes ineffective.
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06-16-2006, 10:25 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Nakamichi
Hate to revive an old thread, but what are Honda/Acura’s service intervals for the AT Filter? This is the first serviceable AT filter I’ve seen on a Honda/Acura, but I don't see anything in the manual about this. I know a few other non-Honda/Acura cars I had, recommended changing the filter during a fluid change.
This filter can't last the life of the car, unless the life of a car is at end of warranty or 100,000 miles. A filter can only filter so much before it becomes ineffective.
This filter can't last the life of the car, unless the life of a car is at end of warranty or 100,000 miles. A filter can only filter so much before it becomes ineffective.
06-16-2006, 10:35 PM
#9
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The filter, more than likely, is an in-line filter that is designed to filter out large pieces of metal during break-in, if any. Otherwise, it probably serves no useful purpose.
I'm not sure how the plumbing of that transmission is, but it is possible to plumb a "magnefine" in-line filter in place of the Honda OE unit. You can purchase one from Bulkpart.com...for less than $20. See if you can install it in place of the Honda OE unit...measure the line size.
A Magnefine filter will provide REAL filtration, and the filter WILL need to be replaced at least every 30K.
The ATF fluids now are true "fill-for-life" fluids. Any replacement we do, at a more frequent interval than recommended, is purely for piece-of-mind and is unlikely to increase overall transmission life. Honda ATF-Z1 has a tendency to discolor and produce an unique odor that may resemble a "burnt" odor, but the fluid is still suitable for continued use.
Changing it every 60K is fine for most drivers. If you wish to be extra cautious, I'd drain/fill at 30K.
Also, one drain/fill is sufficient unless there are pronounced shudder or harsh shift symptoms.
I'm not sure how the plumbing of that transmission is, but it is possible to plumb a "magnefine" in-line filter in place of the Honda OE unit. You can purchase one from Bulkpart.com...for less than $20. See if you can install it in place of the Honda OE unit...measure the line size.
A Magnefine filter will provide REAL filtration, and the filter WILL need to be replaced at least every 30K.
Originally Posted by Power1Pete
Change the ATF every 30,000 miles. If you waiting until 60,000 miles for the first change (per Acura), I think you are asking for trouble...
Changing it every 60K is fine for most drivers. If you wish to be extra cautious, I'd drain/fill at 30K.
Also, one drain/fill is sufficient unless there are pronounced shudder or harsh shift symptoms.
06-16-2006, 10:43 PM
#11
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Here's the link to Magnefine filters:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...=inline-filter
http://www.magnefine.com/
If you install one, keep the Honda OE filter in case of a warranty claim. You'll need to reinstall it before seeking warranty service.
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...=inline-filter
http://www.magnefine.com/
If you install one, keep the Honda OE filter in case of a warranty claim. You'll need to reinstall it before seeking warranty service.
06-16-2006, 11:12 PM
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I’m actually referring to the external ATF Filter that sits on top of the transmission. I know on my CL I put the Magnefine filter on (since there was no servicable filter) and it worked well. But the TSX seems to have a serviceable one. I'm just trying to find out the service interval for that piece. On the CL I simply changed the Magnefine filter with every ATF change.
For the TSX, the picture in the first post and below shows a ATF filter. That's the one I'm concerned about. Because if that becomes clogged from negligence, that could lead to insufficient fluid and/or pressure cool the internal parts of the transmission.
Part in diagram: #4
Part Number: 25430-PLR-003
Description: FILTER (ATF)
For the TSX, the picture in the first post and below shows a ATF filter. That's the one I'm concerned about. Because if that becomes clogged from negligence, that could lead to insufficient fluid and/or pressure cool the internal parts of the transmission.
Part in diagram: #4
Part Number: 25430-PLR-003
Description: FILTER (ATF)
06-16-2006, 11:42 PM
#13
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Again, all in-line transmission filters have a BYPASS valve that will open if the media becomes clogged, preventing any possiblity of fluid starvation. It's a non-issue.
The magnet captures MOST of the metal shavings. Since Honda doesn't require the in-line unit to be serviced, I'm assuming that it is solely for the purpose of capturing large chunks during break-in or in the event of a catastrophic failure (at that point, you're screwed anyway).
If you want additional filtration, then swap out the factory unit for a magnefine.
The magnet captures MOST of the metal shavings. Since Honda doesn't require the in-line unit to be serviced, I'm assuming that it is solely for the purpose of capturing large chunks during break-in or in the event of a catastrophic failure (at that point, you're screwed anyway).
If you want additional filtration, then swap out the factory unit for a magnefine.
06-17-2006, 12:03 AM
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Doh.. My bad for making you repeat yourself. For some reason, for some reason I missed your posting from 11.35pm.
Thanks for clearing everything up. Makes sense now.
Thanks for clearing everything up. Makes sense now.
02-28-2009, 09:50 AM
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Not sure if same but on my 04 accord the filter is a small canister that is on top of the transmission on the driver side. It wasn't hard to change. The other thing to do is buy the filter and go searching for a similar part on your engine - not a very elegant solution I know.
02-28-2009, 11:43 AM
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03-31-2009, 12:17 PM
#20
Is there an internal screen/filter like every other tranny I have dropped the pan on?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...0,partGroup,33
Click on MORE INFO.
This doesn't look anything like the inline one. It looks internal.
Can someone verify?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...0,partGroup,33
Click on MORE INFO.
This doesn't look anything like the inline one. It looks internal.
Can someone verify?
07-14-2009, 02:47 PM
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2005 TSX tranny filter
i tried to change the ATF filter last night. it's fairly easy to get at. i loosened the clamps but i was unable to get the filter out. i was able to get one side about 1/4 inch movement on one side. It feels like it's glued in there which i know can't be the case. Any ideas on how to pry the rubber tubing off without actually cutting the filter out and replacing rubber hoses?
07-14-2009, 03:15 PM
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get some pliers or vice grips and grab the tube where its connected to the metal and firmly wiggle it back and forth. its probably just to tight to do by hand
07-16-2009, 06:11 PM
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Thanks, the pliers worked. I tried to cut the casing open with a hack saw but it's thick metal. I'll try to get a friend to cut it open then post a picture of the internal filter element in the days ahead.
10-04-2009, 07:33 PM
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Automatic Transmission Filter for Accord 2006
I am about to change automatic transmission fluid for my Accrod 2006. Would someone (knowledgeable) be able to explain what is the purpose of AT filter that is located on top of the transmission under air filter box? I know Honda does not have "serviceable" filter because it is located inside of the transmission. So, what is then a little box on the top of the transmission. Did someone change / open it? Does it do filtering or it is just a magnet for large pieces.
Thanks.
Thanks.
03-31-2012, 08:03 PM
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My brother just drained the ATF and it was really bad and the service reminder came on for the ATF code at 60,000. Don't know why Acura would say 60K for first change.. it should definitely be done 25-30K miles.
04-01-2012, 09:10 AM
#26
The change interval for the 04 and 05 models is 120K for the first time, every 90K after that (severe service interval is half that). I agree that it should be done more often, but the condition of the fluid is almost completely dependant upon how the car is driven. All stop and go and/or short trips will degrade the fluid tremendously versus all highway/long trips for instance. The MM takes this into account and will trip the fluid change code when it thinks it's called for. My wife drives all highway miles (07 model) and the change code didn't trip till she had passed 100K miles. Other's here have had the code trip much earlier (like your brother evidently). It sounds like perhaps your brother should change his fluid more often, but that may not be the case for everyone.
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getty97 (10-25-2013)
05-25-2014, 12:59 PM
#27
Cruisin'
Link to picture of location in case anyone needs it.
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-ge...tf-change.html
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-ge...tf-change.html
07-22-2014, 12:08 PM
#28
hi everyone, is it really recommended to change out this a/t filter? I'm at 95,000 miles and change the fluid once a year doing a drain n fill. dw1 now by the way, no more z1. car shifts fine, just like when it was new.
07-23-2014, 01:41 PM
#29
No, it's not recommended, at least by Honda (there's no change interval for it). I did it because it's fairly easy and cheap, and because it's there. It's probably more of a feel good measure than anything else.
09-25-2014, 09:32 AM
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I'm about to do the fluid and filter change, I have had the car for a while, about 30k miles ago. I don't know if the previous owner actually changed something but the owners manual recommend the fluid change at 120k so I'm doing it since the odo has 115k, its looks fairly easy and if you DIY goes for around 100dlls with 9qt and the filter. Will post results.
I going with the drain refill method (3x), its my first time doing this type of job and I'm a little concerned that I would mess something if I go with method that disconects the return hoses wich probably removes more old fluid.
I going with the drain refill method (3x), its my first time doing this type of job and I'm a little concerned that I would mess something if I go with method that disconects the return hoses wich probably removes more old fluid.
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