P2422 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Vent Shut Valve Close Malfunction
 

2006 Acura TSX 6MT

So my engine light came on the other day while driving, got it diagnosed and pulled a DTC P2422, which is caused by a malfunction with the vent shut valve.

I'm not sure where the vent shut valve is located exactly, but if I am correct, I believe it is the part labelled #2 in this diagram: Discount Honda and Acura parts and accessories - OEM Acura Parts

I did some research and some people say that this problem is caused by a spider's nest blockage somewhere along parts labelled #2, 10, 12, 14, or 20. I decided to get my hands dirty and take a look. After removing the entire EVAP canister, I checked all the hoses and nothing was blocked (couldn't really see inside part #20 though).

Other research indicated that by replacing parts #1 and #2, the problem will be fixed. But for others, it didn't solve the problem. So I decided to do some troubleshooting before I spend any money.

I came across this: http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/cr...22pinpoint.pdf so I decided to try it out.

When I turned the ignition to II, I didn't see the valve move at all, is it supposed to move while in ignition II? (the above tutorial doesn't specify what's supposed to happen)

I then disassembled part #2, took out what I believe to be the vent shut valve, and it didn't seem to be damaged or anything (pics below)

Now I'm stuck, I can't tell if the vent shut valve is busted (if it even IS the vent shut valve. looks like its fine though) or if the vent shut valve is actually inside the canister and therefore needs replacing :donno:

Is there anyone that can verify my identification of parts? Anyone solve this problem already?

Left (Canister), Right (Dust Filter - vent shut valve inside?)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...4-04001701.jpg

Attachment 51165

I think that piece I pulled out is the vent shut valve
Attachment 51166

There is a moving valve in the center, you can see the botton of it right in the middle there
Attachment 51167

And there's the top of the moving valve part in the center
Attachment 51168

P2422 "Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Shut Valve Stuck Closed Malfunction"

Diagnostic suggests blockage in vent hoses or drain joint might be the problem, otherwise after ruling out wiring, replace valve.

The valve is actually just the bit on the end that in in the box, and seals with an o-ring.

Is it likely that there's a blockage beyond the drain joint?

The valve moves up and down perfectly fine though, is it possible its busted in a way that isn't visible to the eye?

It may move when you move it, but will the valve move when power is applied?

Well I tried plugging the valve into the 2-pin connector while the ignition was in position II, and I didn't see it move at all. But maybe the valve is only functional when the car engine is on, and when its connected to the rest of the evap system?

Movement with valve plugged in and ignition position 2 is controled via HDS (Honda Diagnostic System) settings, so no movement was expected.

At this point, replacing the valve and cleaning the hoses and drain joint seems the simplist way to hopefully clear the problem.

All,

My car ('04 TSX) is throwing code P2422. Car drives normal, no other problems. I have not yet crawled underneath the car but how can I get access to the EVAP canister shown above? Do I need to lift up my car from the rear? From the schematics it look like it is underneath the rear seats behind the fuel tank?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Update: Since my original post I havn't done anything to fix this problem. Anyways, my battery died cause I left my fogs on over night, so I jumped the car and as I was sitting in my car lightly revving the engine to charge up the battery, the engine light for the EVAP canister code went off :s

I have yet to drive the car for a longer period of time to see if the light comes back on

Awesome write up I have to replace my Canister Assy this weekend and I am trying to read as much as I can before I put myself underneath this car.

you can apply battery voltage via jumper wires to the pins of the valve to check for operation. this wont tell you if the vehicle is telling it to operate but it will tell you if the valve motor itself is working. Dont leave power to it for more than a few seconds though.

Could we get an update of how you solved the (canister/vent) issue?