ballen5150

Does this look like a normal tie rod failure? The tie rod bellows looks like rats ate it. Grease everywhere.
There are no symptoms when driving or strange noises when turning wheel so Im wondering how urgent it is to fix it.





urgent to fix

BROlando

That's a steering rack boot issue.

No idea why this happened.

Yes, you should fix it instead of just driving it. Waiting until there is a problem is going to get massively expensive, because it will be a problem with the steering rack.

I recommend buying the boot and clamps from an Acura dealer.

You will need an alignment once this is done.

ballen5150

Do you think it is a leaking steering rack and that's steering fluid?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

As BROlando suggests you are going to want to get that fixed quickly.
Looks like a big chunk of the boot has been removed?
Either by furry fiends or solid hit from road debris?

Here is where you can notate / research OEM parts and then shop the web for the best deal.
P.S. Gear Box - 2007 Acura TL 4 Door BASE (NAVIGATION) KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

BROlando

It does look like a fluid leak, but could also just be grease. I would check for that to see if rack seals are bad.

ballen5150

Thanks for all the input. Here are some shots of tie rods and other oil stained areas further up. P/S reservoir is at the minimum fill line so it seems like its a very slow leak. Outer tie rods are shot so plan to replace tie rods (inner and out), bellow and clean up as best as possible.
With slow leak Im hoping that rack can wait but open to opinions on urgency


endoscope of inner tie rod

endoscope in bellows

endoscope of oil stain at far end of inner tie rod

oil stain near far end of bellow

BROlando

I would just fix all of it at once. You're taking most of the rack apart to get to the inner tie rods

Also...buy your parts from an Acura dealer. I wouldn't take a chance with aftermarket "OE replacement" tie rods or seals. You only want to do this once.

ballen5150

Any advice on breaking free a seized jam nut?

BROlando

The outer tie rod jam nut?

Unfortunately, heat is the only real way. BUT...you're replacing it, right? So who cares? Cut it off if its faster. Get medieval

ballen5150

Number 18
yes replacing
I dont have a sawzall or grinder and am limited to what my condo association/ neighbors will put up with
Im wondering if I could take both the inner and outer off as a unit with channel locking pliers on 1.

BROlando

That's not likely to come off with pliers

You can wait until tomorrow and buy a MAPP torch kit from a hardware store. An angle grinder is probably cheaper though.

ballen5150

There is video online of a guy using channel locks so may try that first. If not Ill be getting a torch

thoiboi

I doubt youll get enough torque with channel locks but good luck

ballen5150

Thanks for the help. Propane torch, long crescent wrench and 3 lb hammer took the Jam nut off with a couple good whacks

Any tips on after market parts. Dont want to spend for OEM as Im probably going to sell within a year. I read lots of people using moog. Dorman premium is listed as the best they have on RockAuto.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...e+rod+end,7428

Also I read that the drivers side bellows was larger than the passenger side but the Acura dealer and acuprapartswarehouse shows its the same for both sides. Should I also use the acura bellow inner band? Does it require a special tool?

BROlando

I can't recommend any aftermarket, OE replacement brands. They've all been failure prone in my experience. Maybe someone else can.

The genuine Acura stuff is only like $20-50 more than aftermarket, no? Why would you chance it?

You need a band crimping tool, IIRC. I don't think these are the type that have a detent.

ballen5150

Im seeing OEM inner for over 100 and outer tie rod for 50.
Moog is 50 tot. I dont drive the car much so dont want to put too much into it.

Legend2TL

I'd be OK with TRW aftermarket for both tie rods. TRW make quality suspension aftermarket parts, AFAIK TRW still make many OEM suspension components.

ballen5150

I ordered the Moogs from Rock Auto before I saw the TRW recommendation.

I was thinking that if my jam nut was so frozen how have they been doing my alignments? Does this mean I should unfreeze the other side before I take for an alignment or better yet find a more trust worthy shop.

BROlando

They're probably heating it up, loosening it, and then tightening it back up. Or they have better tools (no offense meant).

You should anti seize the adjustment thread and locknut to prevent future issues.

The torque on that jam nut isn't super heavy either. Now's the time to look that up.

*Definitely* don't over torque for the castle nut either.

ballen5150

No offense taken.Appreciate the input.
I noticed some people will pack extra grease into the inner ball joint. and along the inner stem. Is that needed?
Im planning on using blue thread lock on the inner Tie rod threads and anti seize on the jam nut and outer tie rod threads